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Posts Tagged ‘Old Fashioned Mom Show’

*EXCLUSIVE* Selena Gomez hits the mall with friends
Photo: Backgrid

When Selena Gomez loves a trend, she goes all in—especially when it comes to denim. Though the pop star’s wardrobe is filled with a variety of shades and washes, one cut has emerged as her favorite: the step hem. An early adopter of the look—short in the front, long in the back—Gomez has been spotted wearing it countless times this summer. Whether paired with blouses, oversized sweatshirts, or lacy tanks, the style has allowed Gomez to make even her simplest looks visually interesting.

Yesterday morning in Santa Monica, Gomez demonstrated that by pairing a vintage-inspired AC/DC T-shirt from Brandy Melville with 7 For All Mankind’s Josefina high-waisted jeans and a pair of Balenciaga’s square toe ankle boots. The combination merged several of Gomez’s current obsessions—concert tees, Jennifer Fisher hoops, and luxurious heels—into a cohesive look.

While Gomez’s preferred denim tends to come from premium brands like 7, McGuire, and Re/Done, you don’t have to splurge to get the same effect. A pair of scissors and a little know-how are all that’s required to update an old pair of jeans. It’s a hack worth testing out this summer—and thanks to its built-in boot-friendliness, it will be equally versatile come fall.

 

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Meghan Markle attends the Royal Air Force at Westminster Abbey in London clad in custom Dior. (July, 2018)

Meghan Markle attends celebrations for the Royal Air Force at Westminster Abbey in London in custom Dior (July, 2018).

Photo: Getty Images

Over the past year, Meghan Markle has become synonymous with the boatneck, or the “bateau,” neckline. The Duchess of Sussex first made waves with the classic, clavicle-baring cut at her wedding to Prince Harry this past May, for which she wore a custom Givenchy gown by artistic director Clare Waight Keller. (Fun fact: There was a spike in Google searches for “boatneck” on that very day.) Since then, the newly royal Markle has flashed her collarbone at the majority of her outings, including two back-to-back events in early July: a polished olive dress by Ralph Lauren to Prince Louis’s christening and a black Dior dress to the RAF100 event.

While Markle looks quite elegant in a boatneck dress, the silhouette draws a great deal of criticism. I mentioned it in a team meeting and was met with a collective eye roll. Terms rang out like “dated!” and “old!” I later did some digging with my colleagues to figure out exactly what made the cut so disliked. “Country clubby Waspy!” said Vogue Culture Writer Bridget Read, adding, “It just makes me think of my mom’s late-’80s bridesmaids dresses at her wedding.” Another colleague, who preferred to stay anonymous, flatly noted: “It is a neckline that we haven’t seen in forever. I can’t remember seeing it anywhere,” she said. “It feels ’50s housewife.” True. I searched the Vogue archives and the last time there was even a whisper of the word “boatneck,” it was a shirt sunken into a lone page in 2015. Welp.

meghan-markle-wedding

Markle wears a custom Givenchy wedding dress by artistic director Clare Waight Keller in Windsor (May, 2018).

Photo: Getty Images

But why should we hate the boatneck so much? It does not fall into that divisive bad-taste-good-taste category, like the wallet chain or thong sandal. The boatneck belongs to prim wardrobes. It first appeared in the pages of Vogue in the ’40s, as vacation garb for upper-crust New England beaches. Fast-forward to the cusp of the millennium: Vogue included a charming orange quarter-length-sleeve boatneck shirt by Petit Bateau in its May 1999 Index. It was titled “Prep Talk” and sat smack-dab next to the late Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, a summertime icon. For eveningwear, it recalls the polished ’50s—say, Hubert de Givenchy, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. (Vogue Senior Fashion Writer Janelle Okwodu said it makes her think of: “French people, Jackie Kennedy, and Oleg Cassini.”) The boatneck is a signifier of old-timey glamour and buttoned-up money, which should translate to positive polish. But it is for those very reasons that the boatneck is not particularly cool or accessible; it may even read as out of touch. It’s marooned in its ivory tower, especially when the world is responding to critical issues with trends like “warcore.”

Markle at the christening of Prince Louis in Ralph Lauren (July, 2018).

Markle at the christening of Prince Louis in Ralph Lauren (July, 2018).

Photo: Getty Images

That said, it’s not all bad for the boatneck, at least visually. Its shape is great for the body’s figure. Vogue Culture Editor Alessandra Codinha shared a thought: “I think it is traditionally a very elegant neckline—and it tends to make the waist look smaller, by drawing the eye laterally at the top.” Vogue Market Editor Alexandra Gurvitch likes it, too, but from a modest point of view. “In the church [Markle] got married in, she had to be modest but she subverted it by the boatneck dress,” she wrote, adding, “the neck or clavicle is a woman’s best asset. Nothing more sexy!”

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Markle wears a Theory blazer at Cardiff Castle in Wales (February, 2018).

Photo: Shutterstock

All things considered, the duchess is making it work for her and proportion-wise, it makes sense. Plus, Markle is under constant scrutiny, as the royal family dress code dictates how much skin she can show—whether she wears a dress with a semi-sheer bodice in her engagement portrait or shows too much shoulder at an event. The boatneck is a conservative way for the new royal to show some skin. Though, as for whether or not it will make a comeback on the runway? It’s unclear if the Markle sparkle will radiate that far into fashion. But like always, it could be worse, especially when it comes to those Buckingham Palace–mandated dress codes. Vogue Runway Director Nicole Phelps made a strong point: “Boatnecks aren’t as offensive as nude pantyhose.” Boatnecks are, indeed, just the tip of the iceberg.

 

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When designers start working on a new collection, they likely ask themselves, What do women want and need right now? Maybe it’s an optimistic splash of color, or a return to power suiting, or clothes to wear for the resistance. Or maybe it’s stuff that actually comes in their size—something you’d think more brands would address, considering a majority of American women (67 percent, to be precise) wear above a size 14, while most brands stop at 10 or 12. Kaelen Haworth’s new line, Second Sight, nearly doubles that range with pieces in size 00 to 24.

You could say Haworth laid the groundwork for Second Sight when she was designing her first label, Kaelen, which quietly ceased production after Spring 2017. The business mirrored that of many New York designers: She designed four collections per year, dealt with the pressures of runway shows, and was dependent on wholesalers, meaning higher prices and little room to experiment or add extended sizes. Second Sight is practically the inverse of all of that: It’s online-only and direct-to-consumer, offering monthly “editions” of five elegant, softly tailored dresses and blouses, usually for under $500. “Something is changing, and [my former business] wasn’t sustainable,” she says. “Shows were never really my thing, and I’m not sure I ever really needed to do them. I was making clothes for the runway, and I always thought I’d work out [the kinks] afterwards in production, but I never had time. So when the collection got to the retail floor, it wasn’t always the best we could do,” she continues. “And in the age of the Internet, it’s really hard to ask people to look at the same stuff for four months, or to look at something [online] and realize you can’t buy it for another four months. With monthly editions, we’re still designing everything pretty far in advance, but we’re adaptable.”

Adaptable is the key word. When a fabric shipment was delayed for her most recent edition of tops and dresses, Haworth had to swap in an ivory jacquard—and on the fluid, feminine pieces, it worked nicely. Feedback from customers is crucial, too; she’s not necessarily crowdsourcing ideas, but takes every email, Instagram DM, and in-person comment into consideration. “It’s amazing to see how much easier it gets when people give you that [immediate] feedback,” she says. “We’ve been shooting on friends and family and a few people we’ve found on Instagram, so we’re using that as an opportunity to talk. It’s interesting to hear what their challenges are and what they want to see [being offered in their size]. A lot of the girls who model the extended sizes have said, ‘I don’t want to just show my shoulder or my ankles, I want to show other parts of my body.’ We’re hearing what they want instead of assuming what they want,” she adds. “But I think disrupt is the wrong word for it. I want to enable! It should be easier.”

 

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Kim Kardashian West
Photo: Getty Images

Last night, Kim Kardashian West joined her sisters Kendall and Khloé and momager Kris at a charity poker tournament in Inglewood. Leading the pack was Kardashian West, fresh off her recent date night with husband Kanye and dressed directionally in a skintight bodysuit, PVC jeans, and clear heels.

Kardashian West has tested Matrix-inspired pieces in the past—a leather trench to offset dresses, micro shades with heels. Just on Saturday night, she wore a futuristic metallic bodysuit and high-slit skirt. Last night’s look married these elements. Kardashian West chose a Yeezy-friendly bodysuit (from American Apparel) with spaghetti straps to nod at classic 1990s styling. High-waisted PVC trousers infused the ensemble with a more seductive feel, which Kardashian West played up with translucent sea blue heels. Dior shades designed by Rihanna finished the look.

 

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Katie Holmes
Photo: Getty Images

Katie Holmes played Jackie Kennedy in the 2011 mini-series The Kennedys, and yesterday in New York City—for the second time in recent memory—the actress’s street style appeared to be taking cues from the first lady. Holmes stepped out in a simple tee, below-the-knee pencil skirt, and spare sandals paired with oversize shades and a classic lady bag, offering up an elegant approach to casual daytime dressing.

Polished denim is having a moment—last week, the Duchess of Sussex wore an A-line denim dress by Carolina Herrera—and Holmes’s navy-on-indigo palette had an elongating effect. A snakeskin belt, Céline belt bag, and neutral-hued flip-flops rounded out the ensemble with polish and ease.

But the most winning accessory of all was Holmes’s oversize shades—no doubt Jackie O would approve.

 

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SZA in a floral dress and a pair of Balenciagas at the 2018 Panorama music festival in NYC.
Photo: Courtesy of SZA / @sza

New York City’s Panorama Music Festival got off to a bit of a rough start—the second half of performances on the first day were cancelled due to thunderstorms, and eager festivalgoers had to evacuate Randall’s Island in the pouring rain. The inclement weather didn’t seem to dampen the spirits for the rest of the weekend, thankfully, and artists appropriately came out in their festival-style best: Michelle Zauner of Japanese Breakfast managed to keep things sparkly in a semi-sheer, sequined ensemble for her performance on Saturday, and David Byrnekept things classic in a sharp gray suit on Sunday.

SZA’s Panorama outfit was equally noteworthy: The Ctrl singer-songwriter donned a deceptively demure deep gray dress with light pink floral accents to her set on Saturday. From the front, the prairie-style frock appeared quite prim with its flowing long sleeves and high neck cut, but based on the Instagram video that showed her walking out onto the stage, this seemingly sweet piece also had quite the revealing back cut-out. In true tomboy fashion, SZA paired the summery dress with a chunky pair of Balenciaga sneakers—even when she’s trying out a girlish look, she still manages to bring an androgynous edge to the ensemble.

Whether consciously or not, SZA’s Panorama outfit makes the case that perhaps the best antidote to the ugly-sneaker trend is a proper prairie dress—or, since opposites attract, vice versa. So next time you don a Batsheva gown, consider offsetting the old-school silhouette with a pair of platform Buffalos—SZA would approve.

 

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Have you been drowning the summer away in Aperol Sprtizes while wearing an  with Susan Alexandra cherry earrings and cherry-adorned Mary Janes from Clara Cornet’s Carel collaboration? I have. And in consciously consuming every produce print I can get my hands on, including a vintage Sônia Bogner dress I copped on TheRealReal, and lusting after a few more (see this ’70s maxi dress from Morphew), I’ve realized that no pattern will come to define the summer of 2018 quite like a fruit one.

They’re everywhere, inescapable, like the sticky humidity in the subway or the selfies from a Revolve-sponsored weekend in Bermuda. Once you open Instagram, you’re guaranteed to see something fruit-printed. There’s a cute Ganni clutch. Scroll further and you’ll come upon Prada’s remake of its Spring 2011 bananas. Later, a beaded pair of  that look like something Carmen Miranda would have worn.

Dior's berry toque, at left, in a 1953 edition of Vogue alongside a tomato-embroidered dress by Givenchy

Dior’s berry toque, at left, in a 1953 edition of Vogue alongside a tomato-embroidered dress by Givenchy

Illustration by Carl Oscar August Erickson, Vogue, May 1, 1953

It’s not unprecedented in fashion. Go back to the 18th century, and you’ll find records of the aristocracy wearing waistcoats embroidered with berries. (Speaking of which, is that a berry or a bloom on Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2018 version?) In a more modern era, Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion’s great subverter and Surrealist, delivered a toque hat of bacchanal grapes in 1939. Dior had a sweeter take on his tart topper of 1953, with cherries, blueberries, and strawberries coming to a widow’s peak between the wearer’s eyebrows. In those two hats, you have the two conflicting sides of this delicious trend: With Schiap, it’s carnal, consumable. With Dior and his femmes-fleurs, it’s naive, tender, all-natural, almost girlish. This makes the great fruit-print renaissance of 2018 more complicated. This year and last, stories of sexual harassment and assault have come to dominate our news cycles. We are educating ourselves to be aware of our power, our privilege, our bodies, and to speak out and defend ourselves against the transgressions we’ve suffered. And we’re doing it while wearing a cheery cherry dress?

Why not? Fashion has come to embrace irony now more than ever, with the boundaries of seriousness and frivolousness, and high and low ever blurring. Over the past decade or so, ironic, iconic fruit prints have reemerged on the runways, from Phoebe Philo’s Spring 2004 bananas at Chloé to Stella McCartney’s tropical fruit salad of Spring 2011 to Rei Kawakubo’s memento mori, Northern Renaissance–inspired fruits for Comme des Garçons Spring 2018. As Mrs. Prada said of her Spring 2011 collection, “It’s time to be bold.” Amen, sister.

 

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Vintage powerhouse What Goes Around Comes Around is celebrating 25 years in business with a one-off sale at Christie’s that will be on view during New York Fashion Week and go under the hammer on September 18.

A lot has changed since cofounders Gerard Maione and Seth Weisser moved to the Big Apple in 1991 and hit the party scene, which “was definitely about fashion back then. If you didn’t have good style,” Weisser recalls, “you weren’t going to get into the party.” Maione, who spent his day hours working for Ralph Lauren, that conjurer of Gatsby and turn-of-the-century English country life, had firsthand experience of how high fashion could be informed by vintage. Together, the friends came up with the idea of presenting vintage with a point of view and putting it in a curated environment that would attract tastemakers and high-profile personalities. Weisser can’t, or won’t, name a unicorn (rare item) that he’s searching for—“I’ve really bought everything I ever wanted,” he demures—but is happy to share one of WGACA’s “holy grail moments.” The Japanese market was denim mad in the 1990s, especially for vintage Levi’s. And while early-20th-century jeans came up on the market, not even Levi’s had pre-1900s dungarees. WGACA got its hands on a pair that had come out of a coal mine in Colorado and sold them to the company for $25,000.

By choosing to have their 25th-anniversary sale at Christie’s, WGACA is aligning fashion with art, though Weisser clearly states that only certain pieces—like a hand-painted Hermès bag from the 1930s that will be in the sale—justify that title. Still, there are key pieces and collections that “aren’t coming back,” and he and Maione are determined to position luxury fashion as a collectible. The two have spent a year putting together pieces that will make a memorable sale. “So many people think they’ve seen everything,” Weisser says, “It was our challenge to bring pieces that have never been exposed, or only once in a blue moon, to Christie’s.” Look forward to lots of Chanel, including a rare surfboard; pieces from Yayoi Kusama’s collaboration with Louis Vuitton; and, of course, Hermès bags, the rare fashion purchase that has a ROI. “The investment value of these special pieces, notes Caitlin Donovan, the auction house’s Handbags and Accessories Specialist, “is largely tied to the exceptional craftsmanship implemented in creating each piece.” Weisser puts it more bluntly: “If you bought [a Birkin] 10 years ago, it’s already worth more than you paid for it,” he says. “The luxury customer is beginning to understand that there is always going to be a residual resale opportunity.”

An inherent selling point of vintage is rarity, but the biggest change Weisser’s clocked in his quarter-century in the business isn’t scarcity as much as a shift of interest from period pieces to brand-name ones.Generally speaking, collectors are less interested in clothing that evokes the world as it was and more interested in trophies from notable collections. Calling all retro hypebeasts . . .

 

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Kendall Jenner
Photo: SPW / SplashNews

There are certain trends in fashion that go macro—dad sneakers, mom jeans, fanny packs—and others that come through industry figures taking risks. Model Kendall Jenner, for one, often uses what she’s learned on the runway and mixes it with more casual cues from her famous sisters. For proof, look no further than Jenner’s latest look, where she elevated her Adidas by Danielle Cathari track pants with a staple piece in the Kardashian-Jenner-West wardrobe: the corset top.

Jenner’s Are You Am I top was the ideal foil for her sporty track pants. The Victorian-era staple was revived by sister Kim Kardashian West in 2016 (her versions were by Balmain and Givenchy), but Jenner used the piece as a quick swap for the summer crop top as a slightly more modest (and fitted) alternative.

A sliver of skin offset the precious nature of her corset. Adidas Yung-1 sneakers grounded Jenner’s look and picked up on the fuchsia tones of her Prada backpack.

 

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Christopher Gibbs, 1966

Christopher Gibbs, 1966

Photo: Getty Images

“Taste is difficult to define,” opined Min Hogg, the exigent founding editor of World of Interiors, “but his is absolute perfection.” She was talking of her great friend Christopher Gibbs, tastemaker extraordinaire, who has died on the cusp on his 80th birthday.

The fifth son of the Hon. Sir Geoffrey Cockayne Gibbs, KCMG and his wife Helen Margaret Leslie CBE, Christopher Gibbs was a well-born Renaissance man with an unmatched eye for aesthetics and a talent for friendship and the mot juste. His weighty words were dispensed with the effortless elegance that he applied to all aspects of his life, from faith to clothing, to collecting and to romance, as he reached for a turn of phrase that could be by turns Firbankian, Mitfordian, or Hogarthian. He was expelled from Eton for Rabelaisian antics—“illicit drinking, panty raids of other boys’ rooms—that sort of thing,” as he wryly recalled, and later attended the University of Poitiers, followed by a brief stint in the army.

But it was a trip to Morocco that was to prove an epiphany. There he discovered the “chimeric city” of Tangier. “I was a young fellow,” he told The New York Times, “and I came in the spring with an old-fashioned friend who had letters of introduction.” It was, as he discovered “a mystic hangover,” a place where “the ancient world [was] still kicking along.”

After that first Tangier foray, Gibbs returned to London laden with Moroccan textiles and rugs and beautifully hand-crafted objects with which he stocked his first antiques emporium on Sloane Avenue. He was 20.

At a time when penurious aristocrats were still demolishing unwieldy stately homes or at least divesting them of some of their contents, the well-connected Gibbs was uniquely placed to sleuth and gather the spoils and market them with seductive style to a generation of deep-pocketed fellow trendsetters, from a gaggle of Gettys and Lord Rothschild to Bryan Ferry and Mick Jagger (who hung out with him, as he once playfully confessed, “to learn how to be a gentleman”).

Gibbs’s avowed aim, as he modestly noted, was to “help people make nice cosy homes where they are going to live happy, beautiful lives.” In fact, he shaped the taste of a generation, appreciating the potency of provenance and patina, and handling scale like no one else. He venerated the splendid and the curious and the humble in equal measure—aesthetic beauty and craftsmanship and the love that had been expended on objects were what attracted him, and he set the bar for generations of insatiable collectors and aesthetes. A visit to his emporium was invariably a lesson in history. His erudition was astonishing, “in the tradition of English cognoscenti,” as his friend Sir John Richardson noted, “like an eighteenth century English parson who knew more about Etruscan vases than anyone at the British Museum.” Above all, he disdained the ‘floridity” of opulent taste; Tangier, he averred, had taught him the beauty of “simplicity.”

In a Gibbs scheme a console of writhing old golden volutes hauled back from a Grand Tour by some eighteenth century English aristocrat for his Palladian palace (and still bearing its original age-dulled and flaking flinish) would be juxtaposed with pots made by villagers in the Rif mountains where he built a bewitching adobe retreat. Damasks were faded, silk velvet was balding, a grand Victorian club chair (once doubtless home to some distinguished writer or politician’s sturdy bottom) would be so threadbare it was practically spilling its horsehair innards, garden flowers were arranged more or less as they fell. “I like things in their natural state,” he once explained, “people especially…objects and people that are unmonkeyed with, that are themselves, not trying to be something else.”

“Part Montesquieu, part Beau Brummel, and part Baudelaire,” Gibbs was at the throbbing heart of Swinging London, attracted, as he recalled to “the grand and the raffish and the fast and the chic,” although he always understood that hard work was the only thing that would sustain and support his passion for beautiful people and things. He knew and was in turn beloved by a who’s who of the great style-makers of the 20th and 21st centuries.

His Cheyne Walk flat was the setting for the marijuana party scene in Antonioni’s Blow Up, (“I thought you were supposed to be in Paris,” an irate David Hemmings— as a character based on David Bailey—says to the period’s uber model Veruschka. “I am in Paris” she replies, apparently stoned out of her mind). Kenneth Anger also shot some scenes for his 1971 cult classic Lucifer Risingthere. Gibbs defined the look of Swinging London in the haute boheme setting that he designed for Nicolas Roeg’s 1970 Performance starring Mick Jagger, Anita Pallenberg, and James Fox—sets that exemplify his signature hippie de luxe mix of vastly scaled antiques, quirky objects, and Moroccan textiles. “I wanted something mysterious and beautiful and unexpected,” he explained, “exotic and voluptuous and far away from pedestrian: some hint of earthly paradise.” It could describe any of the magical environments that he created for himself.

If it was happening in the ’60s, Gibbs was there: he was at the party where the Stones were busted and Marianne Faithful was cavorting with a Mars Bar, and he took the band to Tangier where they hung out at the louche Café Hafa and discovered the unique cadences of indigenous Moroccan music. When he hosted a fashion show for Janet Lyle and Maggie Keswick’s fashion house of Annacat in his Regency flat in 1967 beauteous British aristocrats modeled the clothes in his tapestried drawing room before the gratin of with-it society: David Bailey brought Catherine Deneuve, Marianne Faithful simpered, and Private Eye’s editor John Wells read the order of show to the accompaniment of Dudley Moore at the piano.

Gibbs was the quintessential dandy. He is credited as the wearer of the first flared pants for men (in 1961), of flowering patterned shirts and Regency revival jackets and Moroccan caftans, and was the poster boy for his friends’ menswear fashion brands (including Michael Rainey’s Hung on You, Rupert Lycett Green’s Blades, and Nigel Waymouth, Sheila Cohen, and John Pearse’s Granny Takes a Trip). Gibbs confessed to being “monumentally narcissistic” at the time, and recalled that he might spend 40 minutes on the phone with friends discussing which particular tie (kipper-wide, from Mr. Fish), to wear that day. In the latter half of the ’60s Gibbs parlayed his sartorial know-how as the editor of the shopping guide in the quarterly Men in Vogue supplement of British Vogue. In later life his grand bespoke finery was as loved, well-worn, and battered as the objects he revered, and in Morocco his caftans and lemon leather babouche slippers gave him the appearance of a biblical seer.

Gibbs later exercized his interior taste in a set at Albany, the storied apartment building built around the 1774 mansion designed by Sir William Chambers for Lord Melbourne. A stone’s throw from London’s Piccadilly Circus, and “the enticements of Soho, the grandeur of St. James’s, [and] the comforts of Mayfair, to say nothing of the canny tailoring of Savile Row,” it was, as Gibbs noted, a place famed for its archaic house rules (“no pets, no children, no whistling, no noise, and absolutely no publicity”). It was the perfect London perch, and here Gibbs joined a roster of past and present incumbents that has included Lord Byron, Baroness Pauline de Rothschild, Isaiah Berlin, Terence Rattigan, Bruce Chatwin, Sybille Bedford, Terence Stamp, Aldous Huxley, Fleur Cowles, David Hicks, Garbo, and a fistful of prime ministers from Gladstone to Thatcher.

By 1972 his success as a dealer of beautiful treasures was such that he acquired rambling Davington Priory, a former Benedictine nunnery built in 1153 in the English county of Kent. In 2000, with great reluctance, he sold his family house in Clifton Hampden in Oxfordshire and its contents in an epic sale at Christie’s (“it’s quite a caper to keep a place like this going”), and retreated to his Tangier homes.

He acquired El Foolk, the house of the beauteous artist Marguerite McBey, a Philadelphian heiress who had created a farmhouse on Tangier’s Old Mountain that would not have been out of place in the Sussex Downs and commanded breathtaking views across the Straits of Gibraltar to the coast of southern Spain. Gibbs opened a double doorway from the living room into her former studio, but otherwise kept the atmosphere intact and amplified it with a layering of even more precious and idiosyncratic objects. With his godson, the architect Cosimo Sesti, he later built a ravishing Neoclassical villa in the neighboring gardens, and worked with fellow aesthete Umberto Pasti to create new gardens of imposing if always insouciant charm that soon grew to fecund splendor.

This new house, with its soaring volumes, was a showcase for Gibbs’s bravura if nonchalant taste. The drawing room’s walls were dappled in lime-wash the color of pulped tomatoes by a feisty Frenchwoman who came up from Marrakesh expressly for the purpose; underfoot lay a Tuareg straw and leather carpet. The room’s great height was emphasized by a vast and handsome painting, convincingly attributed to Luca Giordano, of “Hercules hoisting the giant Antaeus,” in its original frame of chunky scrolls of ebonized and gilded wood (the Caves of Hercules are to be found just outside the city of Tangier). It hung above an Indian Regency sofa with a faded pink linen cover hidden beneath an embarrassment of cushions worked with Fez embroidery. Gibbs’s study was essentially a conservatory that brought the sublime gardens inside. “If you have a garden and you experience it through the seasons,” he confided, “it holds you for life.” Gibbs’s partner in life was the sumptuously beautiful Peter Hinwood who lived in his own modest house in the gardens of the El Foolk property. Possessed of very distinguished taste himself, through the decades Hinwood has enjoyed careers as a model, (notably cast as a motorbiking Lothario for an iconic ’60s Olivetti commercial), an antique dealer of consummate refinement, and as an actor, memorably portraying the original Rocky in The Rocky Horror Show, clad in the briefest gold lamé shorts and muscle magazine abdomens.

Gibbs was a pillar of the quaint church of Saint Andrews, built at the turn of the century on the fringes of Tangier’s Grand Socco—“a cool oasis in the city,” as he noted, “with texts from the Koran woven into the reredos and the Lord’s prayer in Arabic round the chancel arch. Its very existence—built by the Scots, painted by Matisse— encourages a belief in miracles.” Gibbs’s faith was deep and sustaining and was made manifest in his profound kindness and generosity of spirit.

Christopher Gibbs died like a king of yore, in his beloved house in his beloved Tangier, surrounded by friends, family, and devoted retainers, in a room filled with auction catalogues and commanding views across the orchard of datura and pomegranate trees that he had planted and seen grow to fruition, the roiling Straits of Gibraltar beyond, and the skies above the bright plumbago blue of his eyes, those all-seeing eyes that had defined taste for half a century and more.

 

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